Pasta Genovese
It may be called Genovese… but it’s 100% Neapolitan and now one of my faves.
If you are born and live in Naples, Italy, it is the center of the universe. You have your own language, your own coffee, and a love for one and only one soccer (football) team and one and only one soccer legend. You also have a complete disregard for any organized or unenforced traffic rules (especially if you are riding a motorbike where a helmet is not required or even wanted). You need to get stuff done and places to go; everything and everyone in your way is going to know it. I think this is all best summarized by something our airport driver said:
“People are born in Naples and they die in Naples.” -Sabrina
My sister Michele beautifully captured the passion, vibe, and street life of our trip to Naples in her Substack post, so I’ll focus instead on the food we experienced. We came home with a long list of dishes we want to try making ourselves, many of them quite different from what we had expected.
Of course, there was pizza - delicious and much lighter than the American kind - the kind where you can eat an entire one for lunch and not feel stuffed. Linguine alle vongole (pasta with clams) was everywhere, made with the freshest clams imaginable. Eggplant parmesan is often served as an appetizer and, like everything else, far lighter than the American version.
Interestingly, the pasta of legend - Puttanesca - we only found once but with no anchovies. We asked five different people about it and got five different answers, ranging from confirming the popular American tale to claims that it was from Rome or Capri. We saw Ragù Napoletano on a menu only once, and it was nothing like our mom’s - or any other mother’s - classic Sunday sauce, ragù, or gravy. I even went back and watched an old Anthony Bourdain: No Reservations episode from 2011, set in Naples. He came to the same conclusion: Sunday ragù is something you’ll only find at your mother’s house - and it’s pretty much the way our mom made it.
To leave you with a teaser of what's coming on this blog, the street foods of Naples are a cuisine all their own. Throughout the city, high-quality, handmade street foods are everywhere, perfect for a quick stop and a bite.
One of the Neapolitan dishes that was a surprise was Pasta alla Genovese. I've heard about it, and there are many stories about how this dish got its name, especially since Naples and Genoa are not near each other, but what intrigued me even more was the fact that it never really made its way to America like Neapolitan classics. It's simple to make and in the tradition of foods that stretch a little meat to go a long way. Of the three restaurants where we tried it, only one included any beef at all, and all were made with long penne noodles broken into pieces (yes! broken pasta!!). These just relied on the taste of the beef imparted into the onions along with cheese.
What I love most about this dish is how quick it is to prepare and how the magic happens as it cooks, low and slow for hours. The sauce can easily be made days ahead and even improves with time. Just warm it gently and loosen it up with a little extra pasta water.
You can find the recipe here:
…or head on over to Our Italian Table.
We hope you enjoy this dish as much as we do...and stay tuned for more of our favorite recipes from this crazy fun city!







Love this! So true what your sister said. It must be Napoli-month because I posted about spaghetti sciue sciue!!
Look forward to trying this recipe but write because I want to thank you for introducing me to Jul's Kitchen. First, her grandmother's take on porcini mushroom risotto (bet i could do was frozen porcini but they're far superior to de/rehydrated) was unique for the homemade broth and delicious. Second, I will be taking her three day cooking class in October. The authenticity of learning in someone's kitchen in the heart of Italy is too wonderful for words and I can't wait. So thank you.