I am just back from Montalcino where I got to work vendemmia (the grape harvest) for the very first time! So, so exciting! While in Montalcino, my friend, Laura Gray sat down with me for a chat on a (very!) rainy afternoon to discuss her fun new book, The Magpie’s Guide to Montalcino, and talk vino and vendemmia. What a fun and informative discussion! 🍇
I first met Laura through her newsletter, which she wrote while running a winery in Montalcino; a position she held for nearly 20 years. In this episode, we explore Montalcino’s ‘rags-to-riches’ history and wine-making traditions through her eyes and experience. From her childhood summers in the region to her full-time residency, Laura shares her multifaceted and fascinating view of Montalcino.
We also delve into the village’s transformation from a medieval trade hub and later a neglected area to its renaissance as a renowned wine destination. We chat about the grape harvest process and the impact of climate change on winegrowers. Laura also describes the traditions of harvest meals and celebrations like 'la benfinita.'
Last but not least, we discuss a few of my favorite new Italian words from her book - including a very fun one that describes when the leaves first unfurl on the vine (do you know it?) Come join us for this very fun romp around Montalcino and its traditions! ❤️ Promise that you will learn a thing or two that could be quite useful at your next trivia cocktail party. 😊 (And don’t forget to order yourself a copy from the link below!)
During our chat, Laura mentioned a special bread made this time of year in the towns and villages around Siena - pan co’Santi (bread with saints). The bread is made beginning in late October through to mid-November in celebration of All Saint’s Day (the 1st of November). Sugar and red wine are added to the dough along with a healthy dose of raisins and walnuts (which represent the saints.) The delicious sweet bread is usually enjoyed after the meal with a glass of Vinsanto - a sweet wine from Tuscany. (I can vouch that it is equally delicious served toasted and slathered with some sweet butter for breakfast.)
Each village has its own slightly different recipe for pan co’Santi. When I was in Montalcino this month, I had lunch at a friend’s home, and at the end of the meal, they served two different versions of the bread - one from Siena and one from Montalcino. It was a fun and delicious comparison between the two - one a bit sweeter; the other spicy with black pepper and anise.
I reached out to our friend Giulia Scarpaleggia, a born and bred Tuscan food writer and cookbook author who lives in the Tuscan countryside for her version of the recipe so I could make the bread at home. Giulia founded her blog JulsKitchen.com in 2009 and now also has a wonderful site on Substack called ‘Letters from Tuscany’ where she shares her seasonal Italian recipes, food writing, virtual cook along, and lots more - scoot on over there right now and subscribe!! It is chock full of delightful recipes and stories!
She agreed to let me share her recipe here - it is an easy and oh-so-delicious version that I have made twice since I returned. It is every bit as good as it appears in her photo below - sweet and delightfully crunchy with flavors that echo the harvest season. Click on the link below for the recipe….yum.
As always, send us a message or leave a comment to let us know if you enjoyed this episode or to suggest topics or guests for the podcast…this is so much fun! 😊
For those that have asked (grazie grazie mille 🙏), Joey is doing great and back in action! He will be back to posting next week and will join me for our next episode! Woohoo! I am also so very excited that he and Mark will be coming back east for Thanksgiving.
And with that - let’s talk all things Montalcino!
Un abbraccio,
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